Miami: A Guide for Grown-Ass Women
Plus thoughts on whether you can go home again as we tour my hometown
Although spring is here and warmer weather is finally in sight, in many parts of the country it’s damn chilly through May and even June! Before I started spending the winter months in Miami, I felt like I was in a Northeastern meat locker for 8 months out of the year, and a little annual reprieve in late December was always restorative and dare I say, life-affirming! So, if you’re looking for a warm-weather escape to hold you over until summer, I’ve got you covered with a grown-up guide to Miami including recommendations for eats, culture, shopping, hoteling and getting your wellness fix. (*Note that this is a long one so click “view entire message” to open in your web browser and see all).
But first, since I grew up in Miami and now spend part of the year back here some 25+ years later, I’ve been thinking about the adage “you can never go home again” (which comes from the Thomas Wolfe novel of the same name). While I never actually read the book, I think like most other things in life, it’s more nuanced than a definitive blanket statement would indicate, and much depends on how you actually define home.
In literal terms, if one were to come back home after a long absence and expect people, places and things to be as they were, as set in memory, then Wolfe is right. In this sense, you can’t go home again. There is no freezing time. And it’s not only the things around us that are different. We are different. The lens we saw through, interpreted through, experienced through, has changed.
But it is certainly a trip to drive down streets you last traversed in high school or visit a place you haven’t seen since you were a child (why do childhood homes look so much smaller than we remember?!), and doing so can stir all of the feelings. Like a little anthropological study of self and a major thought prompt on the ethereal nature of time.
My husband and I started spending winters in Miami Beach in 2021 as a means to see my mom during the pandemic. The opportunity to have precious time with her coupled with the constant flow of sunshine was three-dimensionally nourishing, even in the midst of the Covid chaos, and I feel incredibly fortunate that we were able to find a way to make that temporary seasonal living situation more permanent. I lost my mom after that second winter, so I am especially grateful for every single second we squeezed out of those months together.
Which brings me to the idea of how we define home. It’s another thing I think about a lot, since I live in more than one place. And honestly, when I think of these places, it’s not the physical spaces I see, although I put much time and energy into making them feel like home. Instead, it’s the community around those spaces. It’s the people that inhabit these places that make them feel cozy, inviting, and so beautifully livable; that make me feel like I belong exactly where I am.
Even though my apartment in Miami Beach is 12 miles from my childhood home and 24 miles from where my mom lived the last 34 years of her life, knowing she was close by meant I was home, even if nothing in this ever-changing region was as I had left it all those years ago.
Similarly, the communities I have found- the deep friendships I have made- make me feel like there is no other place I would rather be wherever I happen to lay myself down to go to sleep.
As a younger woman, I didn’t understand how much I needed community; how vital it was to well-being. I had my husband and my stepsons, and they will always be home. But I lacked a true and supportive community, which took a toll on me as a stepmom trying to navigate without a collective of moms around me to share the daily ups and downs, and the particular challenges of helping raise kids you did not give birth to, but can’t imagine loving any more if you had. That version of home was sometimes very lonely, but it taught me to think about the idea of home in a much more expansive way.
I say, you can go home again, with all respect to Thomas Wolfe. Not home as it was, but home as redefined by you, by your heart and your people. I’m still not sure how my parents raised four kids in that house that now looks so small to me, but I can appreciate the community and love that made it a home, and can find myself here, all these years later, home again.
And now for the (home again) guide…
Miami: The Grown-Ass Women’s Guide
If you’re looking for clubs, loud pool parties with all-day thumping music, or toddler-friendly recommendations, you’ve come to the wrong place! This is my chill, tasty version of Miami, minus the overly touristy and “have to go to be cool” kind of stuff (because you’re already cool!).
Eat
Food always figures prominently into my travels, so let’s start with some gastro gems:
Mandolin Aegean Bistro- This is my favorite restaurant in Miami, set in a converted 1940’s home on the edge of the Design District that transports you to another world the moment you walk through the door. It’s charming and totally unassuming. Come as you are, party dress or flip flops, and feast on the Greek/Turkish inspired cuisine from your seat on the tropical patio. The specials are always, well, special, and I usually opt for the catch of the day along with a mix of spreads and veggies like cauliflower and beets, and a cold glass of Assyrtiko. After, head next door to Mrs. Mandolin, a lovely little shop filled with housewares, gifts and some vintage finds. *There’s also an outpost called Mr. Mandolin a bit further north in the Mimo neighborhood (see things to do below) that has a delightful happy hour where you can chill on the patio of the coolest reimagined mid-century motel.
This place always makes me happy! Michaels Genuine Food & Drink- James Beard winner Michael Schwartz opened in the Design District in 2007, when the area was just starting its revival. And while there are now lots of other places to go, it’s still a treat to sit out on the courtyard, enjoy a gem lettuce or citrus salad with a side of fries and do some serious people watching! The cookie platter is also pretty epic for my sweet toothed friends out there.
Boia De- You may think you’ve made a navigational error when you pull into the old strip mall where Boia De is located, but follow the neon exclamation point situated between a medical office and a coin laundry, and prepare to be delighted by this tiny Michelin starred gem. And while it’s notoriously difficult to get into, they have a bar counter and outdoor tables reserved for walk-ins (I’m told they take around 15-20 per night) so get there early and do not be deterred. The beef tartare is a revelation, the kind of dish that makes you clap after the first bite, and all the pastas (even the gluten-free variety) are house-made and incredible. The wine list is unusual and lovely, and if you fall in love you can buy the bottle to take home.
Rest assured, you have come to the right place! Walrus Rodeo- Situated in the same strip mall as Boia De in Little Haiti, this is another memorable place, with a fantastic (and reasonable) wine list and a menu built around the concept of cooking with fire. Everything is meant to be sharable, and I’m still thinking about the charbroiled oysters a month later! There’s also an inventive cabbage carbonara, carrot tartare, yummy crudo, and pizza with caviar among many other delights.
Pastis- Speaking of home, this place always feels like home no matter the city. It’s been a long-time favorite in NYC, and I was thrilled when it opened here in the Wynwood neighborhood of Miami. The food is always solid, and the fries are the best around. I usually opt for the warm shrimp salad, a cheeseburger à l’Américaine or the chicken paillard. We love to sit outside on the expansive patio, and mercifully, reservations are not difficult to come by. There’s also a great outdoor bar where you can hang while you wait for a table.
Doya- Also in Wynwood, this is beautiful place to sit outside and share a million little plates for a taste of everything. It’s funny, nothing really stands out to me because it’s all so delish, and the vibes are Mediterranean meets Miami, so what could be bad?! Also, if cocktails are your thing, they are among the most beautifully presented I’ve ever seen.
Le Zoo and Makoto- Listing these together because they are both in the Bal Harbour Shops. My husband and I love to sit outside at Le Zoo, right next to the valet station on the parking lot (always available because we are probably the only weirdos who request a table on the parking lot!), and do the most incredible people watching there. Upstairs at Makoto, the fish is flown in twice a week from the Tokyo market and the pallet of pinks, corals and oranges is meant to make you feel like it’s sunset, no matter the time of day.
La Natural- Thank you to my friend
for introducing me to this place in Little River, with sourdough pizzas that taste like they came right out of an oven in Naples. And all of the salads and sides are amazing too.Lucali- The legendary Brooklyn pizza joint has an outpost that’s a little too close to home in my South Beach neighborhood! Pizza is the star of the menu but everything is good here, especially the baked artichokes.
Abbale Televivian Kitchen- We go to the original location in Miami Beach’s South of Fifth neighborhood, and it’s always great. The spreads are incredible (don’t miss the charred onion tahini), the crunchy cauliflower otherworldy, and the salads are all delish.
Lung.Yai Thai Tapas- A tiny hole in the wall in Little Havana on Calle Ocho where we had the best Thai food we have ever eaten- totally unexpected, and thoroughly enjoyable!
Peel- I finally made it to this place that has been hyped by many, and I was not disappointed! Soft-serve non-dairy ice cream made from salvaged bananas and coconut milk, it is well-worth a drive to Miami Shores.
Oh happy day, I finally made it to Peel!
Places on my list and highly recommended by my foodie friends:
Tâm Tâm- This downtown Vietnamese food and wine bar is a foodie fave and next on my list.
Cote Miami- I’m told you must order the Butcher’s Feast.
Surf Club- Thomas Keller, need I say more?
Jaguar Sun- Known for its cocktail program but rumor has it the food is damn good too.
Culture
There wasn’t a whole lot of culture when I was growing up here, but that landscape has changed dramatically. Miami has become an important player in the international art world, hosting Art Week and the premier Art Basel fair the first week of December each year. There’s also the Wynwood Art District, and public art displays in the Design District and all around town. Here are some ways to get your culture fix:
The Pérez Art Museum- Situated on Biscayne Bay, the grounds are reason enough to visit this gorgeous space that features contemporary modern international art.
Rubell Museum- Stunning contemporary art collection in Miami’s Allapattah neighborhood, featuring a mind-bending immersive Kusama exibit among many other delights. And you can grab a bite after all of that art at Leku Fish & Garden, which as one reviewer put it, “is no afterthought.”
The Bass- Opened on South Beach in 1964, the original building for this contemporary collection was the Miami Beach Public Library and Art Center, and the first public exhibition space for art in South Florida. It has since been expanded, and its focus is international contemporary art.
Wynwood Walls and Arts District- So much to do and see in this neighborhood; my advice is to simply walk around and take in the feast for the eyes, starting with the Wynwood Walls. Art is everywhere you look here! Pop into Zak the Baker for coffee/snack break.
Design District- Home to the Institute of Contemporary Art, the Design District offers so much more than shopping. Check out the website to locate various installations around the area and to find the various public art tours offered.
Adrienne Arsht Peforming Arts Center for the Performing Arts and Miami City Ballet- Current programming includes Cabaret, La Boheme and Swan Lake. Check website for tickets.
Vizcaya Museum and Gardens- Built in 1916 as a vacation home for businessman John Deering, this stunning property/museum is a National Historic Landmark that sits on Biscayne Bay in Coconut Grove and is truly a sight to behold.
New World Symphony- Frank Gehry designed this gorgeous concert hall that I have yet to visit, but it feels like it belongs on this list!
Right, the Kusama installation at the Rubell, and left, a day in Wynwood
Stay
I haven’t had to hotel in a long while, but if I did, I would choose:
1 South Beach- This place is on a nice slice of south beach a bit away from the fray on 23rd street, and is beautifully designed in the most perfect, organic beach decor, all white and wood and green from the lush plants everywhere. There’s an awesome rooftop bar/restaurant, Watr, that we pop into from time to time and pretend we are on vacation! Note that it’s pricy, but gorgeous.
The Standard Hotel- In South Beach but situated on Belle Isle on Biscayne Bay, this is an adult-only hotel that has the most amazing spa (more below) and an incredible pool area where you can spread out, hang in the waterfall hot tub or take a cold plunge, and wile away the day relaxing and sipping a green drink or the most delish fróze.
Shopping
Many different options depending on your mood and your budget:
Design District- Every designer boutique you can imagine, including Prada, Chanel, Loewe, Dior, Celine, etc. Plus some more approachable shops like Veronica Beard, Alice and Olivia, Reformation, and Alo for your workout gear. Most of my shopping here is of the window variety, but I get a great dose of style inspo every time I stroll these streets.
Bal Harbour Shops- Same type of ultra upscale shopping as above but if you are looking for major department stores like Saks or Neiman Marcus, you will find them here.
Lincoln Road Mall (plus seasonal Antique and Collectable Market)- Lincoln Road can feel a bit touristy but I think it’s worth a stroll, especially during the seasonal antique market that runs from October through mid-May (see linked calendar). I’ve picked up some unique vintage jewelry, a small Turkamin rug from the ‘40s, and some fun vintage belts. There are also contemporary clothing and jewelry dealers, and you’ll find retailers like Sephora, Lululemon, Adidas and Zara on your stroll down the pedestrian mall which you can walk east all the way to the ocean.
Aventura Mall- I rarely go a traditional mall these days, but if you’re looking for one, this is the place to go, featuring all of the mall stores you would expect. I have lots of memories of shopping with my mom here when I was a kid and Macy’s first came to town (I thought I was very fancy shopping at a NY store!). Try Motek for lunch if you go.
Beach Boutique- A beautifully curated boutique in the South Beach neighborhood of Sunset Harbour, carrying lines like Yvonne S, Nili Lotan and Rosie Assoulin. Owner Patricia is lovely, and has created a little shopper’s paradise.
Amaroo- Located in a village-like setting in Upper Buena Vista, this boutique sells globally-sourced ethical clothing and jewelry (I have purchased both and love!). The name means “a beautiful place” and this little gem lives up to the moniker! Run by the loveliest Lucy and her husband Ocean.
Consignment and Vintage-
Consign of the Times (Located in Sunset Harbour, ultra luxury items).
The Consignment Bar (Located in Mimo, also luxury items).
Veblen- (another Mrs. Solomon find- mostly mens but unique upscale designer wares and vibe- take a visit after you eat at Mandolin next door!).
Fly Boutique- (Located in Mimo, lots of fun stuff and more price-accessible than the others).
Little River Flea- This is a traveling market with lots of interesting vintage vendors and makers- follow IG for locations/dates.
Wellness/Fitness Vibes and other Fun Stuff to Do:
Yoga- by far the best studio I’ve found in Miami is Mimi Yoga. It’s a beautiful space in Wynwood, and the infrared heat somehow feels different than other heated studios. It’s more than a studio, it’s a community, and Mimi’s classes always transport me- they are a true moving meditation.
Other fitness: I am not a bootcamp sort, but there is a Barry’s Boot Camp in Sunset Harbour, along with Sweat 440 and Gotham Boxing all on the same block.
Citibike on Miami Beachwalk: The bike docks are plentiful and there’s an 8 mile path that runs along the ocean from the southern tip of South Beach up north to Surfside.
Beach/Pool- If you are at a hotel you will likely have access to at least a pool, but if you want to check out some other resorts/beaches you can use resort pass to find day passes to resorts around the area.
The Spa at the Standard- This for me is the ultimate spa, with a massive Turkish hammam (you can get a treatment done right on the warm stone), a sauna, eucalyptus steam room and sound showers to bath you in relaxation. The best part about using the spa is that you also get a pass to use on the premises all day, including the all of the beautiful lounging areas and the epic pool.
Pickleball at the Miami Beach Country Club- All tennis courts have been converted to pickleball courts and are open to the public.
Take a walk on the Venetian Causeway- And pop into the cafe at The Standard along the way for a morning shake (coffee, banana, protein and a squirt of chocolate) to fuel you for this gorgeous stroll where you’ll be surrounded by Biscayne Bay on both sides and can spy the cruise ships to the south waiting to depart the port of Miami.
Take a ride along Biscayne Boulevard to the Mimo District- Also known as the Upper East Side, it runs from 50th street to 77th along Biscayne Boulevard and is dotted with midcentury architecture in the form of renovated motels from the 1950’s and 60’s. The aforementioned Mr. Mandolin is in the Vagabond Motel- stop for dips, fries and a cold drink and enjoy it on the outside by the pool. And if you spent any time in Miami as a kid, you might recognize the iconic Coppertone sign that is now on 73rd street.
Rent a boat with a captain- This can be done with a small group for a reasonable-ish sum; we love Captain Joe and the Double Down, which a group of friends rent every season, each of us contributing somewhere around $200ish (depending on how many of us) for a beautiful day on the water.
It’s hard to capture all of the amazing things to do, see, eat, etc, in Miami. I left out some of the more obvious stuff that you can find in other guides, and I don’t spend much time in Brickell where there is also much to do (that’s a whole guide unto itself!). I’ll continue to add to this as I explore and discover. Please feel free to reach out if you are traveling and have questions, and I hope some of this will be helpful to you on your next trip to the Magic City!
As always thank you so much for reading, and if I missed anything you love please please let me know in comments. Feel free to share and show some ❤️ if you enjoyed, which helps others find me here.
Happy Weekend!
Love this!! Thank you xo
I’m thrilled to have this to refer back to AND I can relate to so many things you write about here. We can go back home but it’s never really the same, age has a way of changing the lens through which we filter. Loved reading this and getting insight into your space and time past and present!