Miami: An (Updated) Guide for Grown-Ass Women
Read on if you're in need of a winter reprieve!
(*I have a lot to say about Miami, so click “view entire message” to see entire post)
Pre-pandemic, before I started spending the bulk of the winter season in Miami Beach not far from where I grew up, I felt like I was in a Northeastern meat locker for eight months out of the year. I’m not built for the cold- my people come from southern Italy with its mild, Mediterranean climate, and I grew up here in the tropics, in a home that lacked central air conditioning no less! I moved north with my ex-husband in my late 20s, and can still remember the first time I drove through a snow storm- I excitedly exclaimed that it was “pouring snow,” to which he replied, “nobody says that!” Welp, I said it, in all of my inexperienced, adorable charming glory, and lots of other things that he didn’t understand, but I digress…
I used to joke that every winter felt like the first time, and despite doing all of the things, like exercising daily for my dopamine hit, and sitting under a “happy light” (for HOURS longer than recommended), those months always took a toll on my sense of well-being. I was not what you would call high energy at that time of year, and whatever reserves I had were spent trying to stay warm. Or at least less cold. And March always felt like the cruelest month of all- so close, but not so fast, lady- we have more meteorological tricks up our sleeve!
Which is why I lived for my annual winter visits to Miami- not only did I get some quality time with my parents and brothers, but I felt ALIVE again. Like I could actually breath, minus the wheezing and runny nose. Like the sun lit me from within. This winter, I’ve been back and forth a bit to what has been a frigid NYC where I spend most of the year, and each time I return to Miami I feel something like a reconstituted mushroom- you know, those packaged dried shiitakes that languish in the corner of the produce section until you rescue them, bring them home and soak them in water? That’s me when I get back to Miami- restored, rehydrated, and full of flavor!
So, my little shiitakes, if you’re looking for a bit of winter reconstitution, I’ve got you covered with a grown-up guide to Miami including recommendations for eats, culture, shopping, hoteling and getting your wellness fix. I’ve updated last year’s version, and welcome your suggestions and additions in the comments!
Miami: The Grown-Ass Women’s Guide
If you’re looking for clubs, loud pool parties with all-day thumping music, or toddler-friendly recommendations, you’ve come to the wrong place! This is my chill, tasty version of Miami, minus the overly touristy and “have-to-go to be cool” kind of stuff (because you’re already cool!).
Eat
Food always figures prominently into my travels, so let’s start with some gastro gems:
Mandolin Aegean Bistro- This one’s not a secret, but my list would’t be complete without it. Set in a converted 1940’s home on the edge of the Design District, it transports you to another world the moment you walk through the door. It’s charming and totally unassuming. Come as you are, party dress or flip flops, and feast on the Greek/Turkish inspired cuisine from your seat on the tropical patio. The specials are always, well, special, and I usually opt for the catch of the day along with a mix of spreads and veggies like cauliflower and beets, and a cold glass of Assyrtiko. After, head next door to Mrs. Mandolin, a lovely little shop filled with housewares, gifts and some vintage finds.
Michaels Genuine Food & Drink- James Beard winner Michael Schwartz opened in the Design District in 2007, when the area was just starting its revival. And while there are now lots of other places to go, it’s still a treat to sit out on the courtyard, enjoy a gem lettuce or citrus salad with a side of fries and do some serious people watching! The cookie platter is also pretty epic for my sweet toothed friends out there.
Boia De- You may think you’ve made a navigational error when you pull into the old strip mall where Boia De is located, but follow the neon exclamation point situated between a medical office and a coin laundry, and prepare to be delighted by this tiny Michelin starred gem. And while it’s notoriously difficult to get into, they have a bar counter and outdoor tables reserved for walk-ins (I’m told they take around 15-20 per night) so get there early and do not be deterred. The beef tartare is a revelation, the kind of dish that makes you clap after the first bite, and all the pastas (even the gluten-free variety) are house-made and incredible. The wine list is unusual and lovely, and if you fall in love you can buy the bottle to take home.
Rest assured, you have come to the right place! Walrus Rodeo- Situated in the same strip mall as Boia De in Little Haiti, this is another memorable place, with a fantastic (and reasonable) wine list and a menu built around the concept of cooking with fire. Everything is meant to be sharable, although you may want your own dish of charbroiled oysters! There’s also an inventive cabbage carbonara, carrot tartare, yummy crudo, and pizza with caviar among many other delights.
Pastis- Speaking of home, this place always feels like home no matter the city. It’s been a long-time favorite in NYC, and I was thrilled when it opened here in the Wynwood neighborhood of Miami a year ago. The food is always solid, and the fries are the BEST around. I usually opt for the warm shrimp salad, a cheeseburger à l’Américaine or the chicken paillard. We love to sit outside on the expansive patio, and mercifully, reservations are not difficult to come by. There’s also a great outdoor bar where you can hang while you wait for a table.
Doya- Also in Wynwood, this is beautiful place to sit outside and share a million little plates for a taste of everything. It’s funny, nothing really stands out to me because it’s all so delish, and the vibes are Mediterranean meets Miami, so what could be bad?! Also, if cocktails are your thing, they are among the most beautifully presented I’ve ever seen.
Le Zoo and Makoto- Listing these together because they are both in the Bal Harbour Shops. My husband and I love to sit outside at Le Zoo, right next to the valet station on the parking lot (always available because we are probably the only weirdos who request a table on the parking lot!), and do the most incredible people watching there. Upstairs at Makoto, the fish is flown in twice a week from the Tokyo market and the pallet of pinks, corals and oranges is meant to make you feel like it’s sunset, no matter the time of day.
La Natural- Amazing sourdough pizzas that taste like they came right out of an oven in Naples- all are amazing but our favorites are the wild mushroom with white sauce and the tomato with burrata and basil. And all of the salads and sides are delish too!
Lucali- The legendary Brooklyn pizza joint has an outpost that’s a little too close to home in my South Beach neighborhood! Pizza is the star of the menu but everything is good here, especially the baked artichokes.
Abbale Televivian Kitchen- We go to the original location in Miami Beach’s South of Fifth neighborhood, and it’s always great. The spreads are incredible (don’t miss the charred onion tahini), the crunchy cauliflower otherworldly, and the salads are all incredibly tasty.
Le Jardiner- A Michelin starred gem in the Design District with a great lunch deal ($44 for 3 incredible courses) and maybe the best cocktail I’ve had in Miami thanks to my friend
who had to talk me into the Chicha de Vie (raisin liquor and clarified milk sounded crazy to me, but OMG was it good!).Tâm Tâm- This downtown Vietnamese food and wine bar is pure delight! Named a Michelin Bib Gourmand 2024, I can’t wait to go back this weekend- everything is so flavorful, and it’s all meant to be shared so you can taste it all.
From the website, b/c last time I went I was so engrossed in the food that I didn’t take a picture! Lung.Yai Thai Tapas- A tiny hole in the wall in Little Havana on Calle Ocho where we had the best Thai food we have ever eaten- totally unexpected, and thoroughly enjoyable!
Peel- This was well worth the drive last year when we went to the original in Miami Shores, and now there’s a food truck version in the Design District. Peel uses salvaged bananas and coconut milk to make the most delicious soft-serve non-dairy ice cream- it’s such a treat! Bonus- the delightful and well-cared-for cats that live in the Design District plaza where the Peel truck is parked!
Places on my list and highly recommended by my foodie friends:
Sunny’s Steakhouse- New in Little River and I’m trying to get a resy!
Mother Wolf- Imported from LA to the Design District serving Roman fare- heading there soon!
Catch Miami- Don’t tell the RHONY crew who wouldn’t be caught dead in NYC’s Catch, but I just ran into a friend who said Miami’s newer outpost (in South Beach) has a killer rooftop weekend brunch.
Cote Miami- I’m told you must order the Butcher’s Feast.
Surf Club- Thomas Keller, need I say more?
Culture
There wasn’t a whole lot of culture when I was growing up here, but that landscape has changed dramatically. Miami has become an important player in the international art world, hosting Art Week and the premier Art Basel fair the first week of December each year. There’s also the Wynwood Art District, and public art displays in the Design District and all around town. Here are some ways to get your culture fix:
The Pérez Art Museum- Situated on Biscayne Bay, the grounds are reason enough to visit this gorgeous space that features contemporary modern international art.
Rubell Museum- Stunning contemporary art collection in Miami’s Allapattah neighborhood, featuring a mind-bending immersive Kusama exibit among many other delights. And you can grab a bite after all of that art at Leku Fish & Garden, which as one reviewer put it, “is no afterthought.”
The Bass- Opened on South Beach in 1964, the original building for this contemporary collection was the Miami Beach Public Library and Art Center, and the first public exhibition space for art in South Florida. It has since been expanded, and its focus is international contemporary art.
Wynwood Walls and Arts District- So much to do and see in this neighborhood; my advice is to simply walk around and take in the feast for the eyes, starting with the Wynwood Walls. Art is everywhere you look here! Pop into Zak the Baker for coffee/snack break or grab a drink at the outdoor bar at Pastis.
Design District- Home to the Institute of Contemporary Art, the Design District offers so much more than shopping. Check out the website to locate various installations around the area and to find the various public art tours offered.
Adrienne Arsht Peforming Arts Center for the Performing Arts and Miami City Ballet- March 2025 programming includes the London Symphony Orchestra, Fiddler on the Roof, the Miami Orchestra, and MJ, among other offerings. Check website for tickets.
Vizcaya Museum and Gardens- Built in 1916 as a vacation home for businessman John Deering, this stunning property/museum is a National Historic Landmark that sits on Biscayne Bay in Coconut Grove and is truly a sight to behold. Check out the Sunday Farmer’s Market and Yoga Classes, or take a free tour! See calendar for details.
New World Symphony- Frank Gehry designed this gorgeous concert hall that I have yet to visit, but it feels like it belongs on this list!
Right, the Kusama installation at the Rubell, and left, a day in Wynwood
Stay
I haven’t had to hotel in a long while, but if I did, I would choose:
1 South Beach- This place is on a nice slice of south beach a bit away from the fray on 23rd street, and is beautifully designed in the most perfect, organic beach decor, all white and wood and green from the lush plants everywhere. There’s an awesome rooftop bar/restaurant, Watr, that we pop into from time to time and pretend we are on vacation! Note that it’s pricy, but gorgeous.
The Standard Hotel- In South Beach but situated on Belle Isle on Biscayne Bay, this is an adult-only hotel that has the most amazing spa (more below) and an incredible pool area (perfect for a girls’ day) where you can spread out, hang in the waterfall hot tub or take a cold plunge, and wile away the day relaxing and sipping a green drink or the most delicious fróze. The grounds here are also gorgeous, and I often grab a coffee or smoothie in the morning and park myself on the gorgeous grounds for office hours (where I worked on this piece!).
Shopping
Many different options depending on your mood and your budget:
Design District- Every designer boutique you can imagine, including Prada, Chanel, Loewe, Dior, Celine, etc. Plus some more approachable shops like Veronica Beard, Alice and Olivia, Reformation, and Alo for your workout gear. Most of my shopping here is of the window variety, but I get a great dose of style inspo every time I stroll these streets.
Bal Harbour Shops- Same type of ultra upscale shopping as above but if you are looking for major department stores like Saks or Neiman Marcus, you will find them here.
Lincoln Road Mall -(and Antique and Collectable Market)- Lincoln Road can feel a bit touristy but it’s worth a stroll, especially during the seasonal (Sunday) antique market that runs from October through mid-May (see linked calendar for dates). I’ve picked up some unique vintage jewelry, a small Turkomin rug from the ‘40s, and some fun vintage belts. You’ll also find retailers like Sephora, Lululemon, Adidas and Zara on your stroll down the pedestrian mall, as well as a great vintage store called Habitat Hyett as you head east toward Collins Avenue (keep going and you’ll hit the beach!).
Aventura Mall- I rarely go a traditional mall these days, but if you’re looking for one, this is the place to go, featuring all of the mall stores you would expect plus some upscale designer shops too. I have lots of memories of shopping with my mom here when I was a kid and Macy’s first came to town (I thought I was very fancy shopping at a NY store!). Try Motek or Call Me Gaby for an alfresco lunch if you go.
Beach Boutique- A beautifully curated boutique in the South Beach neighborhood of Sunset Harbour, carrying lines like Yvonne S, Nili Lotan and Raquel Allegra. Owner Patricia is lovely, and has created a little shopper’s paradise.
Consignment and Vintage-
Consign of the Times (Located in Sunset Harbour, ultra luxury items).
The Consignment Bar (Located in Mimo, also luxury items).
Veblen- (another Mrs. Solomon find- mostly mens but unique upscale designer wares and vibe- take a visit after you eat at Mandolin next door!).
Fly Boutique- (Located in Mimo, lots of fun stuff and more price-accessible than the others).
Little River Flea- This is a great traveling market with lots of interesting vintage vendors and makers- I recently scored a great pair of 70’s vintage Levis 517s from Zack at Timeless Imbue. Follow IG for locations/dates.
Capsool- By appointment vintage, much of it straight from Italy. Owner Victoria works magic, creating cropped, tapered blazers from vintage men’s pieces (I bought a reworked men’s YSL blazer last year) and gorgeous trouser skirts made from vintage men’s pants. A truly fun and unique shopping experience in Miami!
One of Victoria’s magic reimagined pieces that came home with me!
Wellness/Fitness Vibes and other Fun Stuff to Do:
Yoga- by far the best studio I’ve found in Miami is Mimi Yoga. It’s a beautiful space in Wynwood, and the infrared heat somehow feels different than other heated studios. It’s more than a studio, it’s a community, and Mimi’s classes always transport me- they are a true moving meditation.
Other fitness: I am not a bootcamp sort, but there is a Barry’s Boot Camp in Sunset Harbour, along with Sweat 440 and Gotham Boxing all on the same block.
Citibike on Miami Beachwalk: The bike docks are plentiful and there’s an 8 mile path that runs along the ocean from the southern tip of South Beach up north to Surfside.
Beach/Pool- If you are at a hotel you will likely have access to at least a pool, but if you want to check out some other resorts/beaches you can use resort pass to find day passes to resorts around the area.
The Spa at the Standard- This for me is the ultimate spa, with a massive Turkish hammam (you can get a treatment done right on the warm stone), a sauna, eucalyptus steam room and sound showers to bath you in relaxation. The best part about using the spa is that you also get a pass to use on the premises all day, including the all of the beautiful lounging areas and the epic pool.
Pickleball at the Miami Beach Country Club- All tennis courts have been converted to pickleball courts and are open to the public.
Take a walk on the Venetian Causeway- And pop into the cafe at The Standard along the way for a morning shake (coffee, banana, protein and a squirt of chocolate) to fuel you for this gorgeous stroll where you’ll be surrounded by Biscayne Bay on both sides and can spy the cruise ships to the south waiting to depart the port of Miami
I usually spot an Iguana or two on my Venetian Causeway walks. Take a ride along Biscayne Boulevard to the Mimo District- Also known as the Upper East Side, it runs from 50th street to 77th along Biscayne Boulevard and is dotted with midcentury architecture in the form of renovated motels from the 1950’s and 60’s. And if you spent any time in Miami as a kid, you might recognize the iconic Coppertone sign that is now on 73rd street.
Rent a boat with a captain- This can be done with a small group for a reasonable-ish sum; we love Captain Joe and the Double Down, which a group of friends rent every season, each of us contributing somewhere around $200ish (depending on how many) for a beautiful day on the water.
It’s hard to capture all of the amazing things to do, see, eat, etc, in Miami. I left out some of the more obvious stuff that you can find in other guides, and I don’t spend much time in Brickell where there is also much to do (that’s a whole guide unto itself!). Please feel free to reach out if you are traveling and have questions! Happy reconstituting!
As always thank you so much for reading, and again, please feel free to add to this list here in the comments if I missed anything you love! If you enjoyed, hit the ♥️ to help others find us here, and if you know someone who needs a winter reprieve, I’d love it if you shared this post.
PS- Have your preordered Midlife Private Parts yet? If not you can get it here, and you’ll be in excellent company, with early praise from Tamsen Fadal, Stacy London and Chip Conley!
Happy weekend, beauties! Dina xx
Oh this all looks AMAZING!! The colours, the heat, the vibes!!! 😍 Love!!! Such a brilliantly personal but fantastically insider-informative guide!! (Also, SO get the Italian internal heat setting in a cold climate, my family are from the north, but I still freeze in the UK!)
I also feel energized when I’m in a warmer climate, Dina! I appreciate all the information.